Making a Print Table

One of the most useful items in my studio is a print table, in fact I have several. One for large pieces of fabric several for small pieces of fabric and for my students and a few to take to workshops that fit into my suitcase.
I've given the instructions to lots of students and actually have the instructions here of the blog somewhere. But I thought it might be useful to have a short video for you.
So here it is, let me know what you think:

Tasters Choice

It's not coffee....its a CD full to the brim with exciting instructions on Thermofax Printing, playing with Angelina, making your own Print Table, using Shiva Paintsticks, carving your own stamps, Gel Medium transfers and much more. Its presented as a PDF document, you can print off all the pages or just what you want to work on. There are over 25 pages of inspiration, tons of photos and clear, detailed instructions for success.
Best of all, is the price, its a great deal at only $5.00. I'm sure you will want to get more than one, after all, December is not too far away, is it? You can order them HERE

From my Print Table - Summertime Printing

Summer is a great time to take advantage of all the wonderful shapes and textures in our gardens. Pick and few leaves and grasses and come play with me!

You will need: a couple of acetate or plastic sheets (plastic page protectors are good), fabric paints, a brayer, some fabric and your greenery!

1. Pour some paint onto you plastic sheet and spread it out with the brayer.

2. Lay the leaves onto the paint and pat down so all areas are touched by the paint.

3. Lift the leaves carefully and lay down onto the fabric (remember it doesn’t have to be white fabric).

4. Pat gently on the leaves and then lift them off. 

5. Repeat for multiple images. Let dry and follow the manufacturers directions to set the paint.

I like to use either the Jacquard or Setacolor paints. Look for the glittery ones if you want a bit of bling or the opaque so the images show up on darker fabrics.

Here are a couple of blog posts about Monoprinting:

 http://www.designmom.com/2012/04/diy-monoprint-fabric/

 http://andthenwesetitonfire.blogspot.ca/2012/05/layered-monoprinted-fabric.html

Maybe there's some other posts that you like?

   

Making a Print Table

Since I've been doing so much printing lately, I thought I'd post instructions on how to make your own print tables. They're easy to make and essential if you want to do any printing or stamping on fabric. The "firm softness" of the print table gives much clearer definition and sharper edges to your printing and stamping and since they're so easy there's no reason not to make at least one! I have five of them because I take them when I'm teaching, they're portable and easy to lift in and out of the car. I would love to have a dedicated table at home, just for printing but these are the next best thing as I can lift them on and off the art table and store them upright in a corner of my room. Since I have a few of them I can print a piece of fabric, put it to one side to dry, then go on to make another and another on the other tables.

I stretch 3 layers of cotton batting over the plywood and staple gun the edges on the back. Make certain you have a good 2" extra on all four sides to bring around to the back. Its really much easier to have someone to help you with this.

I have used pieces of batting that I've joined together with a butted seam (don't overlap edges or you'll get bumps on the top). You can also use industrial felt, old blankets or towels. Just make certain that the product is absorbent and will stand up to heat and steam. Avoid anything too bouncy such as polyester batting or synthetics.

The top layer is a medium-heavy muslin or unbleached cotton. A lighter coloured fabric is easier on the eyes and you can see if images are running through your printing fabric. Avoid thinner fabrics as they can rip too easily. Staple this layer (or two) separately to the back of the plywood, again stretching well but not straining the fabric. By stapling the batting and the muslin separately it is easy to replace the muslin when it becomes too stained. You can also try using the stained muslin as an interesting piece of art cloth!

Now you are ready to use your print table, the thick batting means its easy to pin your fabrics into the table (I use T pins so I can print right over them). Place the pins so the sharp end is towards the centre of the fabric. This way they won't come out if  there is any tension on the fabric. In fact, you should pull the edges of the fabrics slightly so there is some tautness but no distortion.

In my perfect world, I'd love a 4" x 8" sheet of plywood made up into table for larger printing, but what I have works well for me. You can also make a table from foam core (Michaels has 1/2" thick sheets), thicker sheets of styrofoam or heavy cardboard. Try it!

Print Tables

Yesterday I mentioned that I would post instructions on how to make your own print tables. They're easy to make and essential if you want to do any printing or stamping on fabric. The "firm softness" of the print table gives much clearer definition and sharper edges to your printing and stamping and since they're so easy there's no reason not to make at least one! I have five of them because I take them when I'm teaching, they're portable and easy to lift in and out of the car. I would love to have a dedicated table at home, just for printing but these are the next best thing as I can lift them on and off the art table and store them upright in a corner of my room. Since I have a few of them I can print a piece of fabric, put it to one side to dry, then go on to make another and another on the other tables.

I've purchased plywood already cut to 24" x 24" (good for fat quarters) and 24" x 48" (good for 1/2 yard cuts), its about 1/2" thick, and rough finished on both sides. Check the weight of the plywood and make certain its not too heavy to lift easily. You'll probably want to move it around your studio from time to time.

I stretch 3 layers of cotton batting over the plywood and staple gun the edges on the back. Make certain you have a good 2" extra on all four sides to bring around to the back. Its really much easier to have someone to help you with this.

I have used pieces of batting that I've joined together with a butted seam (don't overlap edges or you'll get bumps on the top). You can also use industrial felt, old blankets or towels. Just make certain that the product is absorbent and will stand up to heat and steam. Avoid anything too bouncy such as polyester batting or synthetics.

The top layer is a medium-heavy muslin or unbleached cotton. A lighter coloured fabric is easier on the eyes and you can see if images are running through your printing fabric. Avoid thinner fabrics as they can rip too easily. Staple this layer (or two) separately to the back of the plywood, again stretching well but not straining the fabric. By stapling the batting and the muslin separately it is easy to replace the muslin when it becomes too stained. You can also try using the stained muslin as an interesting piece of art cloth!

Now you are ready to use your print table, the thick batting means its easy to pin your fabrics into the table (I use T pins so I can print right over them). They are portable and you'll probably want more than just one!

In my perfect world, I'd love a 4" x 8" sheet of plywood made up into table for larger printing, but what I have works well for me. You can also make a table from foam core (Michaels has 1/2" thick sheets), thicker sheets of styrofoam or heavy cardboard. Try it!